In a month where the term “beer
festival” was defined by an all-out joyous event held at Manchester’s Victoria Baths, it’s ironic that Wetherspoons launched their bi-annual beer festival in
October. As per, we had 50 beers to hunt down, with the added bonus this time
of one fifth of them coming from American brewers, rarely seen on these shores,
making the journey here to brew especially for this occasion.
I can openly admit that this
festival is normally something I care little for. Whilst the concept and beer
list sometimes intrigue me, I do not find myself fancying a visit to a McSpoons
any more than I did prior to the festival, when bars and pubs in all their
surrounding areas usually offer much better quality.

Yes, this time Wetherspoons had
gone that extra mile, unfortunately this is an extra mile akin to a taxi driver
pulling up an extra mile from your house and believing it’s your destination.
You went further than was necessary and came out with no tip and an unsatisfied
customer.
I tried to find enjoyment from this event. I visited four different Wetherspoons in a week; something even my parents (who spend their holidays doing a tour of as many as they can find) would be proud of. Unsurprisingly to me, I wasn't enamoured by any of them.
Despite being a festival, Wetherspoons
will not commit its cask line pumps to the event. A couple of pubs, as I’ve
heard was very much the norm, only devoted five of the ten cask lines to the
festival. Ruddles County, Abbott Ale and whatever other constant muck still
took over 50% of the available lines to greatly reduce the range offered. Even
the Waterhouse in Manchester, which has its own house beer brewed by Quantum as
well as Phoenix’s Wobbly Bob as constants, retained the regulars rather than go
all out. Only the Cherry Tree in Huddersfield, which had 8 lines devoted to the
festival, seemed to be making an effort.
The plus side was that all the
Wetherspoons I visited had at least one of the American beers on at a time;
most had two. I’m sure they were aware of the allure to more committed ale
drinkers and they kept up to demand. The problem then was always going to lie
in the beer itself.

American Bitter Red, brewed by 21st
Amendment Brewery at Wychwood, was being put on cask as I was planning on
leaving but I said I would wait as I wanted to try it so much. 21st
Amendment are a brewery that Untappd seems to recommend to be me every other
beer I drink. They rate them and I hoped I would too. I am only impressed by
the way Wychwood’s own malts have “harmoniously” counteracted such powerful hop
flavours, such as Centennial and Amarillo, to produce Hobgoblin. At first I
thought my judgement was clouded, but there can be no doubt. This beer was a
Hobgoblin replica. In a blind taste test I would find no differences. Finally,
thanks to Wetherspoons, I can say I’ve had a beer by 21st Amendment
Brewery, if ever I’m asked, and what will I reply? That they brew America’s
version of Hobgoblin? That is the only reference point I currently have.
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The disappointment didn’t stop
there. Abita’s Restoration Pale was poor. Ballast Point’s Even Keel may as well
have said Burton Bitter on the pump clip. Terrapin’s Tree Hugger, which was so highly
recommended, only succeeded in turning a German-Alt style beer into a
traditional best bitter.
The only highlight from the seven
American brews I tried was the one I actually wanted to be poor. Whilst I have
no personal vendetta with Adnams, the way others approach their brewery on
social media makes me slightly resentful towards them and I really wanted their
housing of Stone’s Supremely Self Conscious Black Ale to bomb. Unfortunately,
it was incredibly delicious, powerful yet smooth, zesty yet malty and perfectly
balanced. A single triumph from seven much anticipated ales for me.

I blame myself. I allowed myself
the excitement and pre-judgement. I was the one who expected this festival to
be enjoyable despite years of disappointment. I permitted myself this craft
beer phenomenon to expect anything imported from the U.S.A to be astonishing
and pioneering, before I’d even tasted it. I was only ever going to be disheartened
and let down .I’d prejudged before noting that these were replicas, recipe
changes and, above all, intended to be sessionable versions of others
beers. I very rarely have an excellent,
session strength American beer. Next festival time I promise to leave the
amateurish geekery at bay, even if they create collaboration beers with Clown
Shoes, Beer Valley and High Water Brewing Co. Wetherspoons is a very different
drinking world.
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